Answering the Call of the Ocean
I get this question a lot: “You’re going to the beach, just for a few hours?” Or: “Why would anyone drive a total of 4.5 hours just to surf for an hour or two?”
If someone has to ask, they just don’t know. And they may not get it. Ever.
Because you have to get in the ocean.
Because you have to feel salt water on your lips, on your skin.
Because the ocean is calling and you’d better listen.
Because there might be waves, and if there aren’t you can still be on the salt water. And in it.
Because you can always practice your footwork.
Because you want to feel beach sand – not lake sand or red clay – between your toes.
Because you want to get pitted, so pitted.
Because you want to see dolphins, and sand dollars, and pelicans, and mullet, and rays and…
Because you have a new board that just needs to get out of the garage.
Because you need to get out of the house.
Because you need to get into the Green Room (or the Green Basement, as it were.)
Because it is summer.
Because the water is warm.
Because you don’t need neoprene (if you’re lucky.)
Because the water is the most beautiful greenish-blue.
Because you want to belly up to the sand bar.
Because you want to sleep like a baby afterward.
Because you can’t stop thinking about That Wave.
Because you can’t stop thinking about The Next Wave, and the Next One…
Because people will be able to tell where you’ve been and what you’ve been doing just by the grin on your face later.
Because of the way it makes you feel, before, during and after.
Because going to the ocean is like going home.
Because even a bad day surfing is better than a good day in the office, at work, and/or landlocked.
Because you are obsessed.
Because you can eat that taco or brownie afterward.
Because the Voice of Reason can just go….jump in a lake.
Because, like Isaak Dinesen said, “the cure for anything is salt water — sweat, tears, or the sea.”
Because you can go because you can.